Overhead and Out of Sight: On Lummi Island

Lummi Island from Clark Island.
Mt Baker and North Cascades National Park in the distance.

Lummi Island, WA Population ~1000

Consisting of the second tallest peak in the San Juans, and a rich culture of fishing, farming, and fruit trees, Lummi Island is north-eastern most and, as far as I can tell, the most forgotten of the San Juan Islands.

I happened upon this islan while visiting my friend Becky, who took a job managing a farm for the only Inn on the island. While there, I was invited to come out and fish in the local traditional style of Reefnetting - practiced here on Lummi, and essentially no where else on earth.

Another beautiful sunset.
And since Becky is sneaky when it comes to my camera,
a pic of me playing in the dirt at the farm.

How could I have said no? Of course I will come live on your beautiful island in the middle of it's beautiful summer to fish for some of the most beautiful fish in the world! The bleeder (the job) lead (boss) Angie called me a few weeks later and it was a deal.

The Reefnets on Lummi Island make up an amazing fishery, unlike any in the world. It is important enough to make another post, following this one to tell you all about them.

So what on earth does one do on an island all summer? Of course there are the beaches, the west coast sunsets, and of course the berries, but all places have their own version of these wonderful things about them! What nearly always makes a place special to me is the people. And in this case the Puget Sound.

Reefnet Gears on Legoe Bay, and Bladder Rack, tasty and delicious for breakfast!

I've never really gotten to live near a large body of water in my whole life, never run a boat with a motor, haven't fished since I was a kid, haven't ever gone crabbing, had a ready supply of seaweed to eat at my disposal, or lived in a place where I had to get on a boat to go anywhere else. (a long swim!) So here I am, totally green and trying to be a good choice to take along commercial fishing for the season! It worked! I only fell in with ALL of my gear on once! (Early morning+rough water-coffee=very wet)

So here i was, plunging into a culture built around the sound, with only an idea of what I would be doing. Luckily I caught on fairly fast, and by the end of my summer I was cleaning crab, tying monkey fist knots, and falling in love with the Reefnetters.

One Roger and two Bobs. Various senior (in achievement not condition) Reefnetters in their natural habitats. A bunt, inside and head stand respectively, all on Legoe Bay. All three have been doing this for much of their combined 220 plus years!

The older men who are the Banks of knowledge for a nearly forgotten fishery perch in their head stands, talking, but never letting their gaze off the water, should they miss a fish. They joke about the fish school-size setting on their fancy polarized glasses, talk a little bit of politics, talk about people they have all known their entire lives, and best of all remember old times spent on and around Legoe Bay. When they are out there on their perches, an old tradition flows strong around them. They are as familiar with this trade as anyone ever has been. Their 70-82 year old eyes can pick fish out of the depths that to me might have looked like a shadow or a reflection off the surface, if I saw it at all. They speak of old rivalries on the bay - tricky fish counting; taking on water, to appear 1000 fish richer on the day; 5 gallon water bucket wars; and my personal favorite - one that lives on today, getting tricky with each others lunch pail while they aren't looking!

It is a combination of improv comedy, an adventure book you loved when you were young (and should probobly re-read right now!), and the movie grumpy old men.

Angie and I from a paddle trip to Clark Island with Pig (the dog),
Clamming shovels strapped to kayak.

So here I am in the Puget Sound, living a decidedly of-the-sea life. I was lucky to find not only a great boss, but also a great friend in Angie. We adventured all season: clamming, crabbing, kayaking, hiking, running, bouldering, traveling, chasing after Pig, eating delicious food, laughing with porpoises, smiling with the shooting stars. Oh yeah, and Smoking TONS of fish.